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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.